Vintage Vegas
A guide to off the beaten path joints...
My husband and I recently went to "The Entertainment Capital of the World," to celebrate my birthday. We hadn't visited this neon clad town in over 25 years, and were not sure what historic relics would still remain standing. Needless to say we were both shocked and awed at how built up the city had become, and equally sad at how it was so easy to replace the old with the new.
Because we love nostalgia we wanted to stay in a property that was "vintage" Vegas. So, we stayed at the world famous Flamingo Hotel and Casino (now owned by Harrah's). Which is by far the most celebrated of the early resorts, circa 1946, as it was built by mobster Benjamin "Bugsy" Siegel, a member of the Meyer Lansky crime organization. I am not sure if anything of the old hotel remains standing except for the Pink Flamingo neon sign, but we were ecstatic to stay here! The rooms were very cool - I think perfect for a younger hip crowd - we loved the TV in the bathroom that was built into the mirror and the location can't be beat. We were directly across the street from Caesar's (also owned by Harrah's) - dead center of the strip!!! Flamingo Las Vegas
We walked up and down the strip or took the Monorail that connects the Sahara to the MGM, checking out the sites and sounds, but also looking for the nostalgic Vegas, the "off the beaten path" joints. www.lvmonorail.com
Back in the day if you were from Southern California (and we are) you would drive into Vegas, and always see the "Welcome to Las Vegas" sign, which has been greeting guests to this celebrated town since 1959. Well, most of us now fly, and if you want to see this vintage sign head over to Las Vegas Blvd South (the strip) between Russell and Sunset roads. The sign is located in the center island - but there is No parking here, at least legally.
Just down the street from the Welcome to Las Vegas sign is one of the most famous wedding spots in the West - the "Little Church of the West," which is on the National Register of Historic Places, and has been marrying stars since 1943. www.littlechurchlv.com
As a kid I remember the old cowboy neon sign that waved his arm and would say "Howdy Pardner," this sign is known as Vegas Vic and is located atop the Pioneer Hotel at the Fremont Experience. I guess back in 1966 Lee Marvin complained about the noise (he was staying at the Mint Hotel and Casino) and the sound was turned off. It was turned back on again, but as of 2006 has stopped working and in 1991 his arm no longer worked.
The cowgirl neon sign known as Sassy Sally crowns the Glitter Gulch at the Fremont Street Experience.
Want to see more of the nostalgic neon signs? Be sure to visit the Neon museum - the keeper of all signs cool, as the new signs replace the vintage ones. This is a self guided walking tour of restored signs dating back to 1940 - located on Fremont Street. www.neonmuseum.org
Just as a side note the Fremont Experience is an enclosed area connected with shops, dining and casinos, and in the evening there is a laser show. But in Las Vegas history Fremont Street was the catalyst for the gaming industry.
From the modest beginnings of Las Vegas, Fremont Street initially was in the forefront of the gambling industry. It became the city's first paved street in 1925, the first street to have a traffic light and it is the site of the first Downtown highrise - the Fremont Hotel, built in 1956.
The Fremont Hotel is where Wayne Newton got his start in Vegas. The Apache Hotel on Fremont Street in 1932 was the first Las Vegas resort to have an elevator. The Horseshoe (now Binion's) was the first casino to install carpet. And the first gaming license was issued to a Downtown Fremont Street gambling hall.
Binion's Gambling Hall and Hotel, located on Fremont St., is the original home of the world series of Poker. This establishment was called Binion's Horseshoe (circa 1951) and was the first casino to offer high stakes gambling and free liquor.
Golden Gate Hotel, also located on Fremont Street, is Las Vegas' oldest lodging establishment and opened as the Hotel Nevada in 1906, and was named the Sal Sagev (Las Vegas backwards) in 1931. Clark Gable holed up here in 1942 after his wife Carol Lombard was killed in a plane accident. Today most visitors come for the 99 cent shrimp cocktails and to see Sin City's first telephone (on display in the lobby) - the phone number was simply 1. www.goldengatecasino.net
But the very first gambling hotel was the El Rancho Vegas, the first hotel-casino on the strip in 1941.
Back on the strip the Folies Bergere, one of the original Las Vegas "feather shows," has been in business for 50 years. It is at the Tropicana. Those who blush easily should attend the 7:30PM show, otherwise, attend the 10PM show. Be sure to check out the vintage pool which offers swim-up blackjack between Memorial and Labor days.
The Imperial Palace started life in 1959 as a small motel called the Flamingo Capri. Today it is known for its classic car showroom (but they charge a fee), located next to the Flamingo hotel and casino.
Want to dine where the rat pack did? Try Battista's Hole in the Wall. It is a no thrills place with cheap eats, located behind the Flamingo at 4041 Audrie Street. Or how 'bout the Golden Steer Steak House, which is another establishment where the Rat Pack used to dine, and believe me - little has changed since they frequented this restaurant.
If you want to experience neon Vegas in a lounge setting be sure to check out the Peppermill (a classic lounge on the strip). The intense pink and blue neon and mirrored ceiling of this original ultra lounge, was featured in a scene of Martin Scorsese's "Casino," totally cool. Replete with a sunken fire pit, surrounded by water, and big comfy sofas this place is a primo spot to chill at!
One of the oldest hotels still standing, the Sahara Hotel has been host to the Beatle's and Elvis over the years. This hotel opened in 1952 and is the LAST of the so called Rat Pack hotels. There are numerous vintage photos around the bars. For you historians this is the site where the old club Bingo once stood. www.saharavegas.com
Also on the strip is the Riviera, another hotel we found with lots of vintage photos. Head up to the showroom, and step back in time -definitely worth the visit.
And what would Vegas be without the King? For all you Elvis fans if you go to the Las Vegas Hilton, the big bronze statue out front pays homage to Elvis who rocked the house for 837 consecutive sold out shows starting in 1969.
By all means there is something for everyone in Las Vegas. World class dining, stellar entertainment, gorgeous hotels, and if you look hard enough you will still see a glimmer of the glory days - when Las Vegas was legendary... http://www.library.unlv.edu/early_las_vegas/
Joyce Craddock
